Madang

Dear friends,

As I complete 14 months in this wonderful country, my thoughts begin to wonder to bigger pictures. Have I made a difference? What now? What should I do in 2 years after going back to school? But inevitably they settle and return to the 2 more immediate concerns: 

1) Let me make sure I pass on the baton for continued dedication to climate change and PNG for those who have chosen to serve this cause in PNG, and ensure a smooth transition.

2) Let me reflect on the adventures and experiences that this amazing country has given me since March 2010, for there is truly no place like PNG. 6 million people, over 800 tribes and languages, some of the richest biodiversity on land, air and sea only begins to hint at the uniqueness of this nation.

In that spirit, I write my penultimate update from PNG. Recently I had the chance to go to Madang, a northern coastal province on the mainland of PNG not too far from Port Moresby (1 hr flight). Instead of staying at the standard boutique hotel that exists in each tourist-frequented town in PNG, we decided to go a less traveled route: to the Jais Aben Resort, a simple yet expansive property on the waterfront outside town, with an array of activities to pick from. "The aptly named Jais Aben means ‘resting place’ in local language. Many people tell us that this is precisely the feeling they have immediately upon arrival." - I have to agree, the bungalows by the sea catching the breeze lulled us into a relaxing mood from the moment we entered the compound.

While we did end up spending most of the weekend between the bungalow, dining area (30 ft from the Pacific Ocean) and checking out fish in the ocean, we did also manage to take a trip up to the hilltop for a scenic view out. Interestingly, the hilltop also contained a radio tower, that had been built during the war period, and then later used by missionaries to spread the gospel, promoting peace and bringing stability to the people through religion, much like in many other parts of PNG.

On the next afternoon, we also managed to take a canoe out and paddle to some nearby islands. We ended up making sandcastles with some kids on the first island (the one in the sunrise picture), and then we headed onward onto what we thought was an uninhabited island. To our surprise, as we turned the corner and clambered ashore, we found some smiling locals awaiting us, including a friendly elder who generously offered to give us a tour around the island. Once he found out that we were working on climate change, he took us to the opposite side of the island, where coastal erosion of the island over the years was painfully obvious. A particular section of the coast was unprotected by the extensive roots of mangroves growing elsewhere, and the continuous erosion was a source of concern to the entire village. We were then introduced to the village chief, a frail looking man with a booming voice who, upon finding out our ages, remarked "I have been chief for 42 years - since way before you were born!" before thanking us for our visit and retiring to his hut.

Of course, the trip included some usual unexpected PNG-style surprises - a 3d chess game with life-size bird of paradise pieces, a return canoe trip involving a narrow shortcut under an eye-level bridge back to Jais, being invited to a post-meal drinks conversation with a landowner who was looking or an investment strategy for the "3 million Kina (~1 million USD) I am getting next week", because we apparently looked like his sons. Resulting in an offer to hire us as his investors starting with K10,000 a piece (an offer we politely declined), and tossing us his landcruiser keys in case we wanted to drive around Madang...but what fun would PNG be without typical PNG randomness!

Thus I leave you with this thought: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain